Busan is still not the first choice of city to visit for travellers in South Korea – most have to agree that Seoul is. This time round, we decided to focus a bulk of our time in this city and we discovered not only it is extremely tourist-friendly, the attractions are breathtaking but most importantly, what makes up the city is its delicious food.
We are so excited to put together this article on our great finds in Busan, and many are widely known to be found exclusively in Busan.
Overview
- Pork Soup with Rice (Dwaeji Gukbap)
- Hagfish (Gom Changeo)
- Seafood Scallion Pancakes (Haemul Pajeon)
- Flour and Potato Starch Cold Noodles (Milmyeon)
- Sweet Pancake with Seeds (Ssiat Hotteok)
- Fish Cake (Omuk)
- Cold Pig’s Trotters (Naengchae Jokbal)
- Mix Spicy Glass Noodles (Bibim Dangmyeon)
- Deep-fried Rice Roll (Kimbap Twigim)
- Takeout Coffee Stands
10 local foods to eat in Busan
1. Pork Soup with Rice (Dwaeji Gukbap)
Pork soup with rice is probably the first thing that comes to mind for locals from outside Busan. There is even an entire street dedicated to this comfort food of Busan people and most of these restaurants were passed down from generation to generation. This dish has its roots tied down with the Korean War that took place in the 1950s.
In short, during the war, there was a shortage of beef and so then the locals use pig’s bones and head to create the flavourful broth and the slices of meat are then served in the soup. In most cases, the rice is served together inside the bowl of soup. Unless you order su baek, then a larger serving of meat is served with a separate bowl of soup and rice.
Here’s how Koreans eat:
Every order will be served with a plate of chives and kimchi. On the table, there are chilli powder and fermented shrimp. After you have the first taste of the broth itself, you may start adding the condiments to enhance the taste or to adjust it to your liking. The plate of chives will go in, then add chilli powder if you would like it spicy and also the fermented shrimp for a saltier tasting broth. Kimchi can be consumed on its own or locals like to pair it with a slice of meat and have it in a mouthful.
Price: 5,500 won per bowl
We recommend Halmae Gukbap which has been around for 60 years in Busan.
Address
4 Jungang-daero 533beon-gil, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan, South Korea
Google Maps | Naver Map
2. Hagfish (Gom Changeo)
This is a parasite. Don’t let that scare you yet. Once you have tried it, it is a new taste that you never had before. In the Korean language, it is just a word difference with freshwater eel but the taste is not that similar.
The best way we describe the texture of a gom changeo: a combination of eel, mussel and pork skin. Some parts are firm, some parts are fatty and some parts have that muddy taste to it. It is easily the best thing we had throughout the trip (we adore semi-exotic food by the way).
Also, Busan is the ONLY place that serves gom changeo. They can come off as a little pricey but that’s for a good reason – they are hard to be kept alive. Despite that, every gom changeo stall in Busan serves it straight out from the tank.
Here’s how Koreans eat:
You will be given two options: either it will be seasoned with a sweet red sauce called yangnyeom or simply grilled and eaten with salt. It will then be served over a briquette on a layer of aluminium foil. A quick note that it may be still actively wiggling around at this point of time, it is muscle reflex. The owner will cook it for you and let you know when it’s ready to devour.
Price: 40,000 won for a small portion (good for 2 pax), 50,000 for a medium portion and 60,000 for a large portion.
We recommend supporting one of the local ladies along Jagalchihaean-ro in Jagalchi district where they own a little space furnished with tables and benches. Each stall is given a stall number followed by their stall name. The storefront may not look the best but these ladies work till late at night and are extremely friendly, she even served us a wiggly live baby octopus on the house. Feel free to pay her for it though.
Address
Search for Jagalchihaean-ro OR
Nampodong 6(yuk)-ga, Jung-gu, Busan, South Korea
Google Maps | Naver Map
3. Seafood Scallion Pancakes (Haemul Pajeon)
I really want to describe the closest thing to Pajeon as pizza but they are distinctively different. Pajeon is usually crispy on the outside and mushy on the inside. The greasiness makes it one of the best food to go with your booze. Of course in Busan where they have an abundance of fresh seafood, you need to order your Pajeon with seafood, which is called Haemul Pajeon. They usually come with octopus, mussel and prawn as toppings.
Here’s how Koreans eat:
The pancake will be served in slices and with soy sauce in a separate saucer, simply dip it in for taste. However, in these restaurants that serves pancakes, the pancakes are just side dishes. The mains here are actually the alcoholic beverages, particularly rice wine also known as makgeolli.
How you drink makgeolli the local way, is to mix it with their iconic soft drink which locals refer to it as ‘cider’ (not that alcoholic cider we know). When you order both of these drinks, the staff will bring you a golden brass pot and bowls. Mix it in the pot and pour it into the bowls where you should drink directly from it.
Price: 5,000 won for seafood scallion pancake, 3,000 won for makgeolli, 1,000 won for cider
We recommend 6.25 Makgeolli, a homely place located on the streets of Ibagu where you get an awesome night view of the city after the drinks.
Address
994-601 Choryang 1(il)-dong, Dong-gu, Busan, South Korea
Google Maps | Naver Map
4. Flour and Potato Starch Cold Noodles (Milmyeon)
Another dish deeply rooted to the history of the city, a restaurant relocated from Hamheung (North Korea) to Busan (South Korea) started creating milmyeon by mixing flour provided by the US and potato starch due to the shortage of buckwheat during war. Milmyeon is still loved by many today thanks to the super chewy texture and it can be mainly found in Busan only. Two types to choose from, either mixed with a red sauce (bibim milmyeon) or in broth (mul milmyeon). We highly recommend the mul milmyeon if you can only choose one as the sauce taste can be overpowering.
Here’s how Koreans eat:
Once you are seated, you will be given a brass cup for drinking hot broth. Yes, in a cup. On the table, there is white vinegar where you can add it to your cold noodles. The sourness from the vinegar gives a refreshing new taste to the dish especially when you get tired of eating the same taste of noodles over and over again.
Price: 6,000 won for mul milmyeon, 6,500 won for bibim milmyeon
We recommend trying out Naeho Cold Noodles, the original milmyeon restaurant that started operating since 1919.
Address
17 Uambeonyeong-ro 26beon-gil, Uam-dong, Nam-gu, Busan, South Korea
Google Maps | Naver Map
5. Sweet Pancake with Seeds (Ssiat Hotteok)
Hotteok was love at first bite for me, no doubt. An autumn food to Koreans, it is especially warming with every bite. Ssiat hotteok simply refers to hotteok stuffed with seeds and that, is a specialty of Busan. Its popularity was further boosted by the nation’s beloved variety show ‘2 Days 1 Night’ many years ago.
Here’s how Koreans eat:
As usual, sizzling hot street food in Korea must be served in a disposable paper cup which ensures everything is caught in the cup instead of on your clothes. Devour the hotteok however you want really. Just make sure the hot brown sugar doesn’t burn your tongue!
Price: 1,000 per hotteok
The easiest place to get your hands on one, is at the BIFF square where there are many pushcarts selling it. It kind of depends on your luck or just follow the crowd for a safer bet.
Address
58-1 Gudeok-ro, Nampo-dong, Jung-gu, Busan, South Korea
Google Maps | Naver Map
6. Fish Cake (Omuk)
All across Busan, this is the most popular snack you would see. They love their fish cakes and it comes in WAY too many varieties that you may find it difficult to pick the right ones. After tasting a few different kinds (seven to be exact), we can tell you that they tasted pretty much the same so don’t get intimidated by the wide selection. We recommend picking one or two for a taste first then get more if you like it. Don’t get too excited.
Here’s how Koreans eat:
The most popular fish cake chain restaurant, Samjin Amook’s top sellers in the house are deep-fried green chilli, shrimp, cheese all covered with fish cake and croquette balls. Otherwise, just get anything that catches your attention.
Once you have picked your favourite fish cakes, there is a preparation station with a microwave. Heat it up with the instructions on the microwave, and you can cut it with scissors for easier consumption. They will not be able to re-fry it for you.
Price: starting from 700 won
We recommend Samjin Amook which has the longest history in the fishcake industry and has many outlets scattered across the city.
7. Cold Pig’s Trotters (Naengchae Jokbal)
If you haven’t tried pig’s trotters, you should. Think of it as a chewy plate of collagen – that’s how I would describe it. It’s health food, it’s great for your skin. If you already love it, take your pig’s trotters challenge to the next level with a plate of icy cold pig’s trotters in salad style.
Here’s how Koreans eat:
Order naengchae jokbal if you want the salad version, not just the regular jokbal. Any main you order will come with a set of side dishes and of course, lettuce. Take a piece of lettuce and place a piece of meat, red chilli paste and cucumber on top of it. Fold or wrap the lettuce so that all these can go into your mouth at once.
Price: 30,000 won for a small portion (good for 2-3 pax)
We recommend the one and only Busan Jokbal. Be prepared to wait in queues though but it is a very traveller-friendly place with menu in several languages.
Address
8 Junggu-ro 21beon-gil, Bupyeong-dong, Jung-gu, Busan, South Korea
Google Maps | Naver Map
8. Mix Spicy Glass Noodles (Bibim Dangmyeon)
This is also another dish that is created during the Korean war. Due to the lack of wheat flour, potato starch is used as a substitute which is what glass noodles are made of. Glass noodles bloat in size and are slimy so it makes it a full and quick meal for refugees.
Here’s how Koreans eat:
The noodles are usually served with spicy red sauce, strips of fish cake, egg, carrot, yellow pickled radish and vegetable. Mix everything properly and it is ready to eat!
Price: usually around 5,000 won per bowl
We recommend a visit to Bupyeong (Kkangtong) Market where you get a feast for your senses. Within the market, there are many stalls selling it. It is not uncommon to also find deep-fried rice rolls (see next point) at the same stall!
Address
39 Bupyeong 1-gil, Bupyeong-dong, Jung-gu, Busan, South Korea
Google Maps | Naver Map
9. Deep-fried Rice Roll (Kimbap Twigim)
It’s the rice rolls you always see in traditional markets but better. It is deep-fried. You probably can’t find this in Seoul but in the southern part of the country, it is so common, especially in the same stall where they sell tteokbokki, rice cakes in spicy sauce.
Here’s how Koreans eat:
Anything twigim (deep-fried), Koreans love to dip it in the bright red tteokbokki sauce. You can get the sauce for free if you request from the owner with a pretty smile saying: tteokbokki sauce-seu ju-say-yo. If you believe in my half-bucket Korean.
Price: around 4,000 won per portion
We recommend a visit to Gukje Market for this local’s comfort snack.
Address
25 Gukjesijang 2-gil, Gwangbok-dong, Jung-gu, Busan, South Korea
Google Maps | Naver Map
10. Takeout Coffee Stands (Compose Coffee, The Venti, Paik Coffee etc)
Let me guarantee you that these take out coffees are extreme value for money: 1,500 won for a 500ml Iced Americano and 2,500 won for Iced Latte – provided if you have them take out. Paik Coffee is priced slightly higher at 3,000 won for Iced Latte but it also has a wider selection which is by far our favourite coffee stand. I am astonished by the taste of the coffee. It was way better than the giant chain cafes namely Angel-in-us and Ediya Coffee that cost 5,000-6,000 won.
So, thank you Busan for the great and affordable coffee we enjoyed every morning without fail.
Here’s how Koreans drink:
Definitely Iced. Definite Americano. In short, they call it ah-ah which refers to Iced Americano in Korean. You can give it a go when ordering but I can’t guarantee that you won’t make them laugh for using their lingo.
Price: starting from 1,500 won (iced americano)
We recommend the three that we always go for: Compose Coffee, The Venti or Paik Coffee. They are located all across town so it won’t be difficult finding one.
Very sure you’ll enjoy Busan’s delicacies as much as we did!
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