I was as uncertain about this decision as you would right now before you make the trip to Sapa.
It wasn’t until an adventurous soul who took time to start a forum about ‘winging a homestay in Sapa’ on TripAdvisor that I decided to take that leap of faith. Sure enough, the ray of light struck the moment I stepped out of my sleeper bus from Hanoi. I met May.
While everyone else is approaching Caucasians who were getting off the same bus, May approached me (who has a 100% Asian look) with the brightest smile and said softly:
“Homestay?”
“I bring you walk my village, cook you dinner, stay with my family.”
and that unquestioned “okay” from me got me two best days of my life and a new great friend – someone who winged his homestay in Sapa too. Till date, anyone who asks me about Sapa, I will always reply:
“Wing that homestay.”
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5 reasons why you should book Sapa independently with the locals
1. You are supporting local families
When you book direct with the local ladies, 100% of the proceeds go directly to your host and her family.
This was the deciding factor to which why we decided not to book a tour through an agency. Although we do not know the actual figure, tour agencies are the third parties earning commissions out of every deal. That would mean the ladies who are doing the bulk of the job be left with only a tiny portion of what came out of your pocket.
2. Closer interactions between you and your host family
More often than not, going direct meant you’ll be in a smaller group than if you choose to pre-book your homestay with an agency. Smaller groups naturally meant that you would have closer interactions between you and the host or even her family.
I felt May’s genuine care and concern for me throughout the 3 days I spent with her. It was not just one instance of it, it was consistent throughout my stay.
She sets up a fire for me to toast my literally cold feet, who has never spent a night up in the mountains. She cares about what I want to eat. We casually talked about the usual breakfast food I have in my country and the next morning she actually cooked it for me! When noticed local kids gnawing on sugar canes, I really wanted to try it. She insisted on paying and even peeled the skin off for me. Can’t help but to feel touched by her motherly instinct.
3. They will show you a raw and authentic experience
By engaging these local ladies, they are less likely to be influenced by agencies who are experts at catering to western standards. They probably don’t follow fixed procedures on showing you certain things or are trained to answer questions in a certain way.
I am not saying all those that are with an agency do that but it is more likely for them to do that in order to offer what would seem to be the best tour experience for tourists. In particular to those travellers seeking higher comfort level more than raw local experience.
4. Flexible schedule
She caters to your schedule. Which day do you want the homestay? How many days do you want to stay? Any particular places you would like to visit?
The mountains are literally her backyard. She can bring you anywhere you plan it or follow her to truly experience ‘a day in her life’. May literally brings me with her to grocery shopping and then stopped by her friend’s house for a cuppa – where I sat there and watch them chit-chatting, without understanding a single word yet loved every second of it.
5. It’s cheaper than a pre-booked tour anyway
It’s not just for her. You too, save your dollars if you don’t pre-book your tour with agencies you find online or randomly in the city centre of Hanoi. I paid USD$40 for 3D2N, it may have changed since then but hopefully, it is a reference for you.
I also know that she charges USD$30 for 2D1N and a quick search on Google will show you the lowest price for a 2D1N homestay in Sapa is USD$59.
Tips for your Sapa homestay
– Are you prepared to live the mountain life?
Here’s a non-exhaustive list of what you can expect:
- Be surrounded by a lot of animals. I am referring to friendly puppies, piglets, cows, ducks and rooster that crows at the break of dawn.
- There MIGHT NOT be western-style toilets or hot water for shower. We were lucky to have it but it is considered a luxury to have them up in the mountains.
- It’s going to get COLD all year round. I needed to wear my jacket to bed in December when I was there but considering that my tolerant to cold weather is extremely low.
- No wifi – this one is pretty apparent. It’s the perfect opportunity for digital detox but if you really need internet access, make sure you have a data SIM card which will get you super speed internet connection even in the mountains.
- A humble home. We can’t expect to receive the same comfort level as we do in our own home in the city. Their dining area is usually furnished with plastic chairs and low tables like everywhere in the country. The kitchen is not equipped with a stove, sink or cabinets. They use wood to make fire and do the washing right outside of their house.
– A right place for the vegans
If you’re vegan, there are lots of fresh greens and mushrooms. I had the best mushrooms of my life in Sapa, honestly. I am sure there won’t be any problems if you inform your host when you are discussing the tour details and she will be able to cater to your needs.
– Snacks and toys are the best way to get close to the kids
Bring some snacks from your home country to share with them or get some toys from the city. These children may not visit the city very often. Looking at them enjoying our Singapore gem biscuits is so heartwarming.
– Make rainboots part of your outfit in Sapa
It was lifesaving even when I was walking around Sapa town since some parts of the road are wet so it was a great $4 investment for me. The grip of the sole was surprisingly good, so good that it was perfect for the trek where it is muddy for most time of the year.
Many travellers buy rainboots from the city market but won’t bring their rainboots along when they leave. You can consider asking if your host wants it because it is something they could use all-year-round and is a little pricier than the local slippers they usually wear.
– Study your camera to shoot the amazing night skies
This advice came from someone who did not know how to operate an SLR skilful enough to snap the amazing night scenery and is currently regretting – me. The stars surround the house in 3 dimensions. Something I can never imagine living in the city. It was mind-blowing.
– Pay them in Vietnamese dong
They probably will quote you in USD, but when you pay them in USD, they would need to exchange it into dong anyway. So pay them in Vietnamese dong (with a reasonable exchange rate) if possible.
Getting to Sapa from Hanoi
Bus
You can now get your tickets as low as USD$10 for a bed on a sleeper bus and it will take around 5-6 hours including a free pick-up from your accommodation within the old quarter. I used Baolau to compare and book my bus tickets.
Overnight Train
The prices for the trains are steeper compared to buses, starting from US$27. Since Sapa do not have its own railway station, the train from Hanoi stops at Lao Cai Railway Station and from there, you have to take a taxi or van for about 45 minutes to reach Sapa town.
The train, however, is a safer option and it does save time and accommodation cost since it is usually an overnight train.
Both bus and train have their own set of pros and cons but here’s why we chose to take a bus to Sapa:
- Convenience. It brings you right to Sapa town. Taking the train will only bring you to Lao Cai Railway Station which is about 35km away from Sapa town. You have to again, transfer by a taxi to Sapa town.
- Time. Overall, it is the fastest way to get from your accommodation in Hanoi to Sapa town. You save time commuting to and fro the train stations and spend only 5.5 hours on the road, compared to 9 hours overnight train.
Gecko Routes covered a very comprehensive guide on getting to Sapa and I highly recommend you read it if you need more information on getting from Hanoi to Sapa.
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